Well I recently sampled the small Soho based Venetian bacaro restaurant that is Polpo, having lived in London for over a year I thought it was high time I experienced what all the fuss was about! The low-ceilinged 18th-century building, located on Beak Street did, I am pleased to say, live up to my expectations. Though I do think it helped that having read some reviews by the kings of cuisine Jay Rayner, Giles Coren and AA Gill that I had some ideas of what to expect.
Unfortunately I did not take AA Gills advice that Polpo is perfect if you are young and want a cheap, good, fun date restaurant…in fact I don’t think the apple could’ve fallen further from the tree (to which of course I am to blame) having decided to take my own dearest Mother, who being such a travelled foodie is not the easiest woman to please, neither is she the biggest fan of queuing and confined spaces! So why then did I decide to take her to a small, crowded, noisy Venetian restaurant which rather inconveniently does not take bookings!? Skipping over the thought processes of my decision I have to admit it was a risk worth taking.
On arrival at the jam packed restaurant a rather hip looking young lady, the kind who looks like she belongs in an Amy Winehouse video or one of those bars in Shoreditch where you’re sure everyone dressed from the same wardrobe, told us we would have to wait 45minutes for a table. To which I turned and smiled nervously at my Mother asking “is this ok?” sensing the tension the girl rather helpfully suggested we have a drink downstairs in their Campari bar to which we churp ‘oh yes that sounds good’. Half a bottle of wine later and a few rather scrummy appetizers we were both feeling a lot happier (or should I say merrier) and even being inspired and noting down ideas to re-create a little goats cheese, walnut and honey starter back home.
When we do finally get escorted to our table upstairs another panic hits as I notice we will be practically sitting on the laps of our dining neighbours, normally another issue for my Mother. Although on this occasion surprisingly no remarks. ‘Thank god for the wine’ I think and promptly start perusing the menu as if nothing is out of the ordinary and quietly trying to work out how I might manoeuvre my way out should I wish, heaven forbid, to use the ladies room.
However the food and experience on a whole were very good and the price shockingly healthy for central London. Jay Rayner’s thoughts on Polpo made me laugh when he said that ‘a restaurant in the capital which doesn't feel like it's trying to knee you in the groin while lifting your wallet ought to be praised.’
Everything we tried was delicious, however I would definitely recommend their Polpette (meatballs) and their smoked salmon, horseradish and dill crostino. I’m also sure the staff have a very strict application process “no tattoos no job!” of course I couldn’t care less if they’re all as tattooed as Fall Out Boy as long as they are friendly and the service quick, to which both were delivered. Having experienced Polpo I am now very keen to try out Polpo’s sister restaurants Polpetto, Spuntino and da Polpo as I have decided that as long as you know what to expect Polpo is definitely worth the hype!
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